A Must Do When In Stockholm: ‘Steaming’ The Archipelago

Stockholm Archipelago Tours — With coal markings on her face, the friendly Alva has stoked the furnaces that power the S/S Blidösund for more than 15 years, a passion more than an occupation, she tells us. © 2013 Ralph Grizzle

My 16-year-old son and I spent a wonderful day visiting the Stockholm Archipelago. Venturing out into the vast network of islands is an experience too often missed by cruise passengers. Too bad. It is an easy, and exceptional, half-day experience.

We left in front of the Grand Hotel at 13:15 (1:15 p.m.), cruised to Siaröfortet, where construction on a fascinating fort began in 1916 to thwart a potential Russian invasion, then returned to Stockholm on a century-plus-old coal-fired steamboat, the highlight of the day.

Boarding the s/s Blidösund and stepping inside, we first noticed the noise of the pistons pumping. A deck below, coal was being shoveled into furnaces by — surprise — a woman.

When she came up for a breath of fresh air, blonde and Cinderella-like, I remarked that her face was coal-streaked, as if she didn’t know. “Doesn’t do any good to wash it while I’m working” she told me, smiling.

Later, I asked why she did a job like this one. “Wouldn’t you?” she responded, as if it were clear that anyone would envy such an opportunity. Her name was Alva. She told me she had been shoveling coal for more than 15 years.

She invited us down for a look at the steam engine and the furnaces that powered the boat. She couldn’t talk for long; otherwise the engine would “loose pressure,” she said.

With an apology, she stepped down into a pit and fed the furnaces with shovelfuls of coal. The boat wasn’t all that the coal was powering. We noticed that steaks were being roasted over some of the coals (which were approved for cooking). Skyffelbiff, which is translated as Shovel Steak, is served on a clean shovel in the attractive dining room, on the upper deck, a fascinating — and delicious — dining experience.

As steaks were carried up to the dining room, Alva told us that she loved the technique involved in stoking the furnaces and the love and care that went into keeping the old boat going. She loved the simplicity and mechanics of her trade.

The S/S Blidösund has been extremely well maintained, and it is apparent that the crew has an affection for the vessel. Maybe she isn’t the Love Boat, but she is boat kept afloat and running by love.

The S/S Blidösund is operated by Blidösundsbolaget, which runs regular day trips in the Stockholm Archipelago with the steamship and two high-speed boats, m/s Sjögull and m/s Sjöbris.

The steamboat and the archipelago complement one another quite well. Comprised of 30,000 islands, islets and rocks, the archipelago begins at the edge of Stockholm’s Old Town (Gamla Stan) and extends to the open sea, nearly 40 miles to the east (read about transiting the archipelago on a cruise ship, Cruising The Stockholm Archipelago)

Steaming, however, may just be the best way to see Stockholm’s archipelago. I can certainly recommend that you consider spending half a day experiencing what we did. For more information, visit Blidösundsbolaget.

Leaving The Grand Hotel

Captain Goran

Beautiful Homes On The Islands

The Stockholm Archipelago is a popular get-away for Stockholmers, and some have summer homes on the islands - or year-round homes that require they commute into the city for their jobs. © 2013 Ralph Grizzle

Yum!

Red Cottage, White Trim

30,000 Islands, Some Different

I'm not sure what was going on with this island, but it is one of 30,000 islands, islets and rocks that make up the Stockholm Archipelago. Most are green and rocky. I think birds had their day with this island. © 2013 Ralph Grizzle